2012 - Greg's Cycle Tour of Indochina: Bangkok to HCM City: Day 6: Tue 13 Nov

Ride: 85km; total: 263km

Breakfast at the hotel. Fill the water and briefing on the road condition and water stop. After the town, there are a few climbs and then down hill. Watch for large potholes, and cows might be crossing the road with the string so there might a trap. We cycle along this Cadarmom mountain range passing the rice field and we won't be tired as the kids like to say hello and waving from their houses. Recently, the road from Pailin to Battambang has been improved. We stop for water, snack and drink under a big shad of a tree. Then continue cycling another 20km before stopping for lunch in Sneung overlooked a nearby a temple near the road. A little rest on the mat would be good. After lunch we cycle another 25km to Phnom Sampov, overlook the hilltop pagoda and the cave. Just 15km to Battambang, we do a bit of transfer as to avoid the busy traffic in town. Battambang used to be second biggest city but now become a relaxed town where Siem Reap is getting more boom. Situated on the bank of Sangker River, Battambang has many French colonial building and traditional Cambodian house. It is worth to take the Bamboo train as the local railway is running only twice a week for passenger train and cargo train is running more often. So local people enjoy taking more bamboo train. Overnight in Battambang. (B,L,D)

Slept well and up early, 5:45am, for breaky. It was supposed to be at 6:30am but as we waited the staff were only just starting to set the dining area and there was no sign of any food. It appears that the guides say one thing to us, but the motel staff either aren’t told or don’t take any notice. When it did arrive breakfast consisted of a small omelette (individually ordered) and a white bread roll, which I’d rather not eat. I thought the breakfast was inadequate for a planned 85km ride. We had to sit around as the waiters took each order and the cooks prepared each breakfast. Around 7:30am the breakfast started to arrive. The motel staff were just not with it. They just didn’t seem to be trained to cope with the situation at all. So we just relaxed and waited.

Eventually we rode away from the resort about 8:30am and made good time on the first 24km hilly stage. Another 30km of mainly flat riding led us to a lovely Cambodian local lunch, of fish, pork, chicken and stir-fried beef with plenty of rice (which I also try not to eat).

The next 12km was on dirt, some rough, some smooth, but all through a great Cambodian rural area. I loved this ride; it was great to see the real back-blocks of the country. We came off the dirt into a typical village with a good variety of stalls and shops. It was then 17km on a good bitumen road through an area which seemed to specialise in tiny chillies as there were 100s of places beside the road where they had them out to dry in the sun on tarps. The chilli smell would invade your nostrils each time you rode past, a good way of clearing your sinuses. Ended the day’s ride in a winery which made a variety of wines including ginger wine. I didn't try any as everyone who did was not impressed. I've never tasted a good tropical wine yet.

Got on the bus for the rest of the day. Called in at The Bamboo Train, which is a ride on a disused railway line. Had a fun ride on no more than a bamboo platform resting (but not attached in any way) to two sets of railway wheels/axels and powered by a 4.5hp Honda motor connected to the rear wheel via an old fanbelt. It went out about 5km at a fair rate of knots to a village and back again. The sections of rails were so roughly aligned that when the carriage passed over each join there was a huge bang and bump. An OHS nightmare; could imagine that derailments were common, but not on this occasion so it was just all good fun and a laugh. It cost US$4 per person for the round trip.

It was then onto the motel, the Khemara, Battambang. The Khemara was very flash establishment with 100s of rooms.

We dined out at a local restaurant with a fixed menu consisting of chicken, noodles, veggies, beef and fruit. It was again okay, but these set menus seem to be the same type of food all the time. Back in the room by 9:30pm and in bed by 10pm. Despite the mix-up at breaky it was the best day thus far.