Day 23: Fri 30 Nov - Tra Vinh to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) 50km

Ride: 50km; total: 1,174km

Day 21: Travinh - Mytho - Ho Chi Minh (50km+ cycling) After breakfast, start with a section of biking cuts off road onto gravel and dirt lanes, and weaves around hamlets, across water channels, and through quiet dense vegetation. This makes for superb biking after a ferry across the graping expanse of Cochien river from Travinh, the pretty tree lined town with a large population of ethnic Khmer.  Then another section of crossing rivers and canals by numerous, ubiquitous, fascinating ferries, we bike through the route takes us through narrow roads and lanes, past banana plantations, fields of sugar cane, through the lush green landscape of the delta. The ride lead us right into the heart of the rural Mekong before arriving at Mytho – the gateway of the Mekong delta to end our cycling trip. From Mytho, we transfer a couple of hours to Ho Chi Minh City to avoid the busy traffic. TOUR ENDS. 

I felt very sad this morning as it was the last day of the cycle tour.  Although I have a couple of days in Saigon before flying home.

After an adequate breakfast we cycled away from the motel at 7:30am and after only 5km we boarded a ferry (passenger/bike only) back to the mainland.  From the ferry stop it was 13km on a very rough track/road.  My bike didn’t help by having the front shockies permanently locked on to rigid.  It was nearly impossible to look around, but it didn't appear to be very interesting anyway. Stopped at the exit of the big ferry which the truck and bus had used to cross.  As we were waiting the rain came down in buckets so we waited to see what was going to eventuate.  The rain finally stopped so we headed out, but it came down again so we all got covered in dirt and crime from the road.  I stopped to put my raincoat on and therefore had to ride the remaining 20km with Bien.   

Finally stopped at a servo for the last time with the bikes.  It was judged to be too dangerous to ride into Saigon. 

Due to all the rain and mud on the road we were a bit grubby so we tried to clean up best we could for lunch in what we were told was a flash restaurant.  Some had access to their clothes others just washed the grime off.  A 20 minute ride in the bus to the Mekong Restaurant followed.  An amazing number of people and coaches, mostly tourists, were in and around the restaurant.  We were treated to a very nice lunch well presented in a timely manner.  Just as we got back on the bus one of the ladies rushed off.  She had left her very expensive Bolle sunglasses in the toilet and went back but they were gone.  However she had travel insurance with zero excess so was planning to make a claim.   This is the very first and last incident of this nature on the whole trip.  Despite the fact that we all carried large sums of money, cameras, phones, passports etc, we did not lose one other thing.  At no time did I feel uncomfortable about security on the trip although I was always careful with all my belongings.

Back on the bus for the two hour trip to the motel in Saigon.  Booked in, (own room) sorted out my gear and rinsed some clothes.  The Lavender Hotel was great for the $75 per night I paid.  Nearly directly opposite the main markets and not far from many other attractions.  No real window in my room but that was ok as the facilities were modern and clean.  Went for a wander around the markets but got so hassled by touts I gave it a miss.   The aisles are so clogged with stuff that you often have to turn sideways to walk through.   Some of the touts also grab hold of you to try and get you to stop.   These markets were full of the same old stuff anyway. 

Went to dinner with the group at a 4 star motel near the Opera House.  I had ox tail soup with a chicken and chips main, which were both served at the same time.  The meal was ok and only cost US$20 with one beer.  It was nice to eat in a fancy location for a change.   A similar meal would have cost US$5 at a local restaurant.  Had a short wander around the night markets and then back to the motel for an early night.   

The bikes were loaded on the truck for the last time on our tour

The grounds of the Mekong Restaurant

The street scene near the Lavender Hotel in Saigon

A very flash hotel in Saigon decked out for Christmas

 

Day 22: Thu 29 Nov - Can Tho to Tra Vinh

Ride: 80km; total: 1,124km

Day 20: Cantho - Travinh (80km+cycling) After breakfast, there will be time to explore side tracks and trails as the cycling distance today is not far. This gives a great first impression of the “heart of Mekong”. We take first short boat trip to Vinh Long, one of the famous fruits town in Mekong. Then you bike along narrow country lanes, easy dirt tracks and trails. This biking is at its most glorious-through tiny orchards, witness colorful life along the riverside, pedal pass picturesque delta homes, pause to chart with welcoming villagers, clack across innumerable wooden bridges. Cross narrow canals on a local sampan, before finishing at the main ferry for a refreshing boat trips across the expansive Co Chien River. Ride final few km to the very pretty Khmer town of Travinh. Overnight in Travinh. (B,L,D)

Up early after a good sleep and off to breaky near the motel at 6:15am.   Felt really well when I woke so head cold is gone thank goodness.  Good variety of food on offer, Asian and European. Coffee was its normal low standard though.  The restaurant was over water and a flock of geese, water hens and other birds lived underneath and around where we ate.   Not sure that this is all that healthy with Bird Flu and the like a distinct possibility.   But this is Asia and they live very close to their birds and animals. 

Left the motel at 7:30am right on time on the bus to clear the busy, modern city of Can Tho.   Drove for about 30 minutes and then onto the bikes for a 20 minute ride to our first ferry crossing of the Mekong Delta.   Fairly modern steel craft which only took passengers, bicycles and motorbikes due to the lack of vehicle access roads.  Disembarked at an island; a very productive place with all types of fruit and veggies.  Surprisingly there were citrus trees growing in a paddock next to rice.  Wouldn’t have thought this to be possible but the Vietnamese are great farmers and gardeners.  100,000 people live on the island which is about 8km long. 

Another ferry ride off the island and to continue an interesting ride through the Mekong Delta villages and 1,000 of acres of rice paddies.  It looked like the best rice crop we'd seen on the trip; apparently the Delta is a very rich place for agriculture.  We ended up having an early lunch as there wasn't too many option further on.  Lovely fish in a hot pot, veggie & pork dumplings, noodles & tofu, steamed veggies and rice.    

Got back on the bikes to finish the day off.  The best part was the 15km along a single bicycle/motor scooter concrete path through a rural area.   I never get sick of this type of riding, this time we saw the real Vietnam.  The houses were, in the main basic but that said there were lots of rendered brick places too.   The food production that goes on in these areas is outstanding, especially the rice fields.  

You also saw the chooks, ducks, turkeys, cows, geese, goats (although not many) and all the domestic dogs & cats people keep.   It looks as though nobody would go hungry in this country.  

Arrived at the Motel, Cuu Long about 3:40pm.  The guide had apologised for it being basic but in fact it was really nice.  Aircon, hot water, clean linen, and even green tea facilities in the room.  

After doing the chores, shower, wash the riding clothes I went for a wander around the area with Kev.  Saw no Europeans at all; it is definitely a city for the locals only.   

A few of the geese which live under the restaurant

A child seat for a scooter

The child that rode in that seat

One of the interesting single tracks we rode in the Mekong Delta

A group of ladies planting rice in the Mekong Delta

Cuu Long Hotel, Tra Vinh

 

Day 21: Wed 28 Nov - Chau Doc to Can Tho

Ride: 60km; total: 1,064km

Day 19: Chau Doc - Can Tho (50km+cycling) After breakfast, we leave for the floating houses on upper Mekong river by boat where we can see plenty of catfishes, red snappers… breeding under right their houses. What is an amazing life! Then keep boating to visit the Cham village with about 12.000 people who those are weaving sarongs, hats…by hands as keeping their ancestral tradition. Walk to the mosques that Muslims pray and teach Cham kids in Arabic for a while. Then we start cycling along incredible country roads from Chau Doc to Bachuc along the border, or re-trace back to triton (depending on road conditions). The cycling starts to gently undulate and mountains begin to loom as you ride out off Chau Doc. The presence of Thnot trees indicates the growing proximity to Cambodia and the local people speak Vietnamese as their second lanaguge. This afternoon, you will cycle to the killing fields of Vietnam at Bachuc, where Polpot’s regime massacred over 3,000 Vietnamese in 1978. Dinner and overnight in Can Tho. (B,L,D)

Awoke at 2am in a lather of sweat and coughing, maybe the last throws of the head cold.  Managed a good nights sleep nevertheless as Mike Hayes had given me 4 day/night cold tablets.  Felt okay in the morning.  Breaky at 6am in the hotel, basic but okay, eggs sausage and some brawn thing. Another cycling group of 30 odd were also staying at the Ha Long so it was busy.  

Headed out on the bus first up.  We were being taken to board a boat.  First we visited a floating fish farm where they raised basa for export including to Oz. Also saw 1000s of floating houses, some really basic, some quite flash.  There were even workshops, factories, shops and service stations, just like any city but floating.  You wouldn't want to see the conditions the fish are raised if you ever eat basa.

Then to a Muslim community which fled the civil war in Cambodia in the 1970s and never went back. The area around these peoples’ houses and shops was absolutely filthy with litter and rubbish everywhere.  Returned to the bus and was driven out of town to our bikes.  Rode for an hour or so through some busy but interesting areas.  Not as pretty as the rural areas of Cambodia, it was very crowded and people seem to live on top of each other in Vietnam.  

Stopped off at another Killing Field where the Khmer Rouge had killed about 3,000 Vietnamese. Why, no one seems to know, these people were Khmer too so it is difficult to work out.

Rode the remaining 18km to lunch on a fairly busy road, but with no apparent danger.  Lunch was wonderful, fresh Vietnamese food, veggies, omelette, pork & spinach soup, deep fried fish and rice.   There was more than enough food.   Leftovers pictured below.   

Back on the bikes and another 18km along a busy road running beside a canal.  It was teeming with boats and lined with houses.  This country is certainly "alive".   

Stopped cycling for the day at about the 60km mark, had a drink and put the bikes on the truck.   The bus was to take two hours to drive to the motel.   After about 20 minutes an air hose inside the bus broke and the driver pulled over.  The bus quickly got very hot so we all got off for some fresh air.  The driver managed to put a temporary solution in place and we were away again in 30 minutes. However it was a long four hours on the bus all up and we ended up arriving at the motel after 7pm.  I suspect that the guides were being too nice and that they were reluctant to give us what they consider to be bad news.  So they just say two hours instead of four.  A long day with a fair bit of wasted time in my opinion, too long over lunch and we didn't need to do another boat trip today.  

Booked into a very flash and grand motel right on a river junction of the Mekong Delta; water all around with passing boat traffic.  Dinner was at 8pm and at a flash restaurant on the water, not that you could see much as it was dark.  Great meal, veggie soup, chicken, lovely hot-pot fish and green beans with a fruit salad at the end.  

Wandered straight back and into bed about 10:35pm.  I hoped to sleep better, without a nagging cough. 

Ladies fishing near a basa fish farm 

Veggie cart

There is always plenty of food; this is the lefovers

A mask to keep the dust out of my nose and mouth, and the sun off my face

  

 

Day 20: Tue 27 Nov - Takeo, Cambodia to Chau Doc, Vietnam

Ride: 80km; total: 1,004km

DAY 18: Takeo-Chau Doc (78km) Early breakfast. Fill in water and check visa for Vietnam one more time as Vietnam visa has to be done in advance. Cycle 53km to Phnom Den border crossing point. Take a break in half way for water stop. After immigration, say goodbye to our Cambodian driver. Lunch at the local restaurant at the border. After lunch, cycle to discover along the Mekong Delta road into the beautiful green countryside. Along the way you will see rice fields and water buffalos nearby the road. Arrive in Chau Doc, those with energy to spare can climb Sam Mountain for sunset! Dinner and overnight in Chau Doc. (B,L,D) 

Early rise as usual and had a bit of a wander around the area.  Lots of guest houses but just for the locals I'd guess as there's not much to see here.  I did see some lovely old mansions from the French era.  

Scheduled to leave at 7am for our breaky stop and for a change everyone was ready.   Breaky was at the Cool Restaurant a sort of Asian McDonalds in the city.  Breakfast was individually ordered and consisted of two fried eggs and a shared omelette with Kev.  Not quite up to the standard, but ok. 

Out onto the hwy and apart from a couple of drink stops we rode fairly fast all the way to the Vietnamese border.  It took about an hour to do all the paperwork at both sides of the border.   At the Vietnamese side the official asked for US$1 each from everyone (although we’d all pre-paid our visas) but when we challenged him he gave the money back to the first few people who had paid him.  I suspect he could see we were no pushover, we complained loudly about having to pay it, demanding an official receipt and saying we would report him to his boss.    

Another 25km through very interesting villages (in and along the Mekong Delta) followed until we reached our hotel, Ha Long.  Another nice place and well above the standard I was expecting.  

Went for a wander down town and found a lot of shops selling dried seafood with a sort of sugary glaze over it, a local speciality.  A very interesting city.  Dinner was at the motel as the city would not have catered for us Europeans.

Drying their rice on both sides of the road 

Only in Indochina would a small motorcycle carry such a large load 

A Cambodian bus; passengers sit along each side, the front and on the floor

A local speciality, dried fish with a glaze poured over it. Smelt very fishy.

A very old rickshaw setup in Chau Doc

Water lily stems and flowers used as a vegetable

Day 19: Mon 26 Nov - Kep to Takeo 110km

Ride: 110km; total: 924km

Day 17: Kampot – Takeo (85km) After breakfast, we cycle heading to Takeo, the less traveled town in Cambodia but is has much history related to the first Khmer civilization when the first Kingdom was established in the early century. It was known as Funan or Nokor Phnom, means the Kingdom of the Hill. Enjoy packed lunch overlook the scenery of the countryside. After lunch, we continue cycle to Takeo passing Ta Mok's house, the former general commander of the Khmer Rouge. Board on the boat for sunset to Phnom Da to visit the hill top temple former the capital of Khmer Empire in the early century known as Funan. Overnight in Mittapheap Guesthouse. (B,L,D) 

Up early to a lovely sunrise out of our 3rd floor motel room, palm trees, islands and tropical waters. Felt much better so the head cold is just about done.  As we wanted to ride out at 7am we were told that breaky was at 6am.  We got up early and went down only to be told that it was at 7am.   Again a little frustrating.  When it was ready at 7am it was really good, veggies, eggs, sausage and coffee which was ok with a splash of coffee and the rest hot water.   

Headed out about 8am and after a short ride on bitumen we went off road.  The next 38km was on a variety of tracks, paths and roads including some fairly muddy patches.  Nevertheless it was fun and we saw some great rural areas.

Briefly visited a pepper plantation which also had a B&B attached.

We soon found ourselves at the lunch stop, a basic but busy local restaurant on the main road.  A big group of local businessmen came in after us but had pre-ordered their lunch so were served first.   This was good as it was early and it gave us time to cool down.  Just so much food in the end we were sending it away to the drivers and guides table untouched.  Although basic the food had wonderful flavours.  

Headed out after lunch into a very hot afternoon.  I drank about 3lt of water during the 58km ride to the motel, 40km on road and 18 on dirt.   The 18km off road into Takeo was some of the best cycling we experienced on the whole trip.  The villagers were out harvesting their rice and transporting it to home by all means possible; ox cart, motorbike, push bike, over the shoulder on a bamboo pole, etc.  At one stop we were entertained by some lovely happy kids sitting on the fence.   A few knew some basic English.

Although the head guide said the motel was going to be basic it turned out to be very good.  Huge beds, hot shower and aircon, couldn't ask for more.  And I was able to speak to Wendy on Skype via the excellent free wifi.  Not bad for a basic guesthouse.   

Walked to dinner only 700m down the road on the nearby lake.  But by then it was dark so we couldn't enjoy the view.  Nice dinner, particularly liked the mild freshwater fish and the veggies dish.  In bed by 8:35pm as it had been a tough but great day.  

Sunrise out of the hotel window at Kep

Rock Royal Hotel at Kep

Pepper plantation

B&B at the pepper plantation

A very wet and muddy section outside Kep

Lady selling Jackfruit

A great stretch of rural road lined with Aussie gum trees

Preparing the harvested rice for transport over his over-shoulder on a bamboo pole

Kids with one of our guides, Lucky 

Day 18: Sun 25 Nov - Kampot to Kep 30km

Ride: 30km; total: 814km

Day 16: Kampot – Kep – Kampot (53km) Breakfast at the hotel. Cycle to Kep beach town, a less visited beach than Sihanouk Ville. On the way, we visit Sar Sea Cave on the hill top. Arrive in Kep, we board the board to Rabbit Island. Enjoy picnic lunch and relax on the quiet beach. Swim and snorkeling before returning back to Kampot for overnight (B,L,D)

Had an interrupted nights sleep due to an irritating cough.  Nevertheless got up at 5:30am and went for a ride to the mouth of the river where the local fish markets are held.  It was just a place on the river where all the fishing boats gather each morning for the fishermen to sell their catch. There were lots of people and boats coming and going and ended up being a great experience.  I managed to take a few nice photos of the boats and people in the early morning light.  

Back to the motel to pack up and go to breakfast at a restaurant run by deaf and mute people.    

What a wonderful experience and the breaky was fantastic; coconut & banana pancakes, eggs, bacon & a tomato/onion/capers side dish, fresh fruit & natural yoghurt with lashings of good coffee.  All prepared by the deaf/mute staff.   Best breaky so far.  I also bought a couple of T shirts and scarf to support them. Kev had a mouthful of coffee and then went and lay on the couch as he was not well at all.  He's had a head cold and tummy problems for a few days and should not have been riding, but he’s a tough bloke and just kept going. 

Got on the bikes and headed out of Kampot to Kep.  It was a nice easy ride which a few needed as they try to recover from tummy and cold problems.  We booked into the Rock Royal Hotel right on the end of a point.  It is a new hotel, immaculately kept and very grand, but not quite finished.  Some of the electrical wiring were saw hanging out of walls and lying in hallways was downright dodgy.   Kev and I were on the third floor with ocean views via a side window.    

20 minutes later we met in the foyer for a boat trip to Rabbit Island.   Kev skipped this too as he still wasn’t too well.  What a little paradise, palm trees, hammocks, sand, palm leaf huts and warm tropical water.  Had a fantastic lunch under the palm trees consisting of crab, chicken soup, veggies, fish and lovely curried fish.  It felt so relaxing sitting there, not a care in the world with your bare feet in the sand.  I could have stayed there for a while.  At 2:30pm we got back on the boat and headed back to the motel, just a great experience and day all round.  

Spent the rest of the afternoon reading, washing and tidying my gear. 

Dinner was taken at one of the many waterfront restaurants near the markets where we rode in this morning.  Lovely seafood dishes which tasted fresh.

Fish market at Kampot

Our breakfast stop and another example of that lovely French architecture

Boat trip to Rabbit Island

These huts on Rabbit Island were available for $8 per night

Day 17: Sat 24 Nov - Sihanouk Ville to Kampot 55km

Ride: 55km; total: 784km

Day 15: Sihanoukville - Kampot (105 km) Breakfast at the hotel. Today, we cycle 105km on one of the most challenging part in Cambodia. We begin with the 15km through 3 hills from Siahnouk Ville. It is a breath taking but more down hill than up hill. So we can enjoy the ride before the first snack stop. Turn right at Veal Rinh after 43km toward Kampot and the rest of the day is flat. We cycle passing the fishing village and the Muslim Mosque, the scenery changes from the beach area to the mountain range where we cycle along the Bokor Mountain National Park until Kampot. Kampot is a more quiet town and famous for its pepper and durian production. Dinner and overnight in Kampot. (B,L,D) 

The sore throat continued overnight which interfered with my sleep a little.    

We were supposed to cycle from the motel, but the guide decided to bus us out of the busy city, cutting 20km from the day.   50 minutes on the bus and then we got on the bikes for the 55km to Kampot.  My front tyre was flat when I took it off the truck and I said it was a punctured.  But the guides were being a little bit lazy so they just pumped it up.  500m down the road the tyre went flat again so this time the staff changed the tube.  Everyone had gone except one guide, Lucky, so I rode the 20km to morning tea with him.   He was a great bloke, very fit Cambodian champion cyclist.  He spoke English but he was hard to understand sometimes, especially when you were cycling with the wind and traffic in your ears.  Just before our morning tea stop Kerry Kent had a fall when she hit a pothole.  She lost some skin but she got back on the bike and continued OK.  She is a tough cookie.   

The last 10km into Kampot was into a headwind and fairly hot so I was glad when it ended.   Lunch was at a rustic, but beaut restaurant just over the main bridge into Kampot.  It had a very nice homemade wooden stairway and rails to the top floor (below).  Food was plentiful and tasty.  

We booked into the motel about 2pm and some of the group went for a local ride.  As it was raining off and on Kev and I stayed in the room catching up on emails, notes and reading.  We were not feeling that crash hot with the head cold so didn’t need to go riding in the rain.  Being sensible; for a change! 

However I did go for a walk and found that Kampot was a fairly basic rural city catering for the locals in the main.  It’s famous for growing a lots of durian, (the very smelly fruit you are not allowed to take on buses, trains or aircraft), and there are many lovely old buildings from the French era.  Durian tastes great but smells like old boots, dirty socks or worse.   

Dinner was at 7pm at a corner restaurant where we sat outside.  The food was different with lots of local seafood and flavours; very nice.  Had a wander around and saw some very impressive but rundown French architecture which would renovate into something very special.  There was a move to have the city nominated for a World Heritage listing because of the old French buildings, but I don’t know where that is currently.  It could certainly be transformed into something very beautiful with lots of money. 

To bed early, 9:20pm. 

Pet monkey chained to a tree 

Beautiful handmade staircase at our lunch stop at Kampot 

The French-built bus station is now a local market 

Day 16: Fri 23 Nov - Sihanouk Ville rest day

Day 14: Sihanouk Ville – Free Day Breakfast at the hotel. Free day to relax at the beach and explore the town on your own. (B) 

The bikes were locked away this day so no chance of a ride.   I suspect my roommate may have passed on his head cold to me as I had a sore throat when I woke up this morning and was unsettled during the night. However I can’t complain as compared to just about everyone else, who've had all sorts of tummy bugs etc, I've done very well up to now with no health dramas at all.  

After breaky I met up with a small group and went wandering around the shops.  It is certainly not the shopping Mecca of the East, but we managed to find a French coffee shop.  When you don’t get good coffee for sometime even half decent coffee is a bonus.  A covered market about 40 minutes walk away was worth a look. 

Skipped lunch and just went back to the room to do some reading and writing.  

Met up with most of the group for sundown drinks on the beach, but a storm ended up cutting that short and we went to dinner at the same Italian Restaurant.  It was just as slow as the previous night but we weren’t in a hurry.  Despite the waiting I really enjoyed the salmon steak and veggies. Kev was still not well so he skipped dinner and had an early night.   A lot of the group ended up with the same head cold.  I wondered if we had all caught it from some dodgy air-conditioning.

Day 15: Thu 22 Nov - Sihanouk Ville 50km

Ride: 50km; total: 729km

Day 13: Sihanouk Ville – Ream National Park (50km) Breakfast at the hotel and early morning enjoy swimming at the beach. Then cycle 25km through 3 hills to take the boat trip at Ream National Park to visit the mangrove forest. Relax at the quiet beach before hiking 45 minutes to 1 hour through the jungle to the village where lunch is prepared with local family. Relax on the boat and observe patiently to see the dolphin. Afternoon, return back to Sihanouk Ville for relaxing at the beach (B,L,D)

Today we stay in Sihanouk and do a day-ride, so we could have a sleep in.  However I am hopeless at that so was up at 6am.  Breaky was at 6:30am and it was nice to take your time over it.  

The first part of the day, from 8am, was a pretty tough ride.  They took us up some unrideable (for me anyway) rocky hills.  I managed to stay on the second big hill but the first one got me when my front wheel lifted off the ground.  I just haven’t had any practice at this off road stuff.   I do like it so will be doing more from now on.  

It was then onto the busy hwy for a very quick 10km ride to the next quiet road.  I started off by staying on Ken Uren’s (a world champ) back wheel, but he quickly pulled away on the hills so I just took my time. The quiet road led us to a great beach in the middle of nowhere where there was a muslin fishing community.  The Chinese are developing a casino, golf course and resort in this area too.  The Chinese are everywhere!   

The lunch was great, the dining room a simple palm leaf thatch roof open area.  A few of the group weren't eating much due to tummy problems so there was food to spare.  I had a fresh large coconut drink and was stuffed by the time I finished.  There is nothing better that a fresh icy cold coconut drink on a hot humid day.  It’s good for you too I believe. 

I then wandered down to the lounge chairs in the shade and had 40 winks.  I awoke to find everyone gone. They hadn't noticed that I was sleeping; however the back up truck had waited for me.  I rode the 15km back out to the pickup point on my own, which was nice for a change.  

Back to the motel where I spent most of the afternoon washing and cleaning gear.   I then went for a wander to the Bali style beach at sunset.   Very commercial and touristy but some people like that sort of thing.

For dinner we went to an Italian restaurant run by a little Frenchman.  Most ordered pizzas and pasta but I had a nice fillet steak with veggies.  Very nice, but a bit too rare.   The meals were a long time coming, which simulated the appetite nicely.   This was also Leslie's (USA female who lives in China) Thanksgiving Dinner with her new family.    

Some Cambodian houses are basic, and some are flash

Kids - always happy

No load limits in Cambodia

Food sellers at Sihanouk Beach

The Bali type beach at Sihanouk Ville

Day 14: Wed 21 Nov - Kirirom Hillside Resort to Sihanouk Ville (named after the old King) 75km.

Ride: 75km; total: 679km

Day 12: Kirirom-Sihanouk Ville (75km). Early morning to see the bird and walking 1km to enjoy variety of different attractions including a 40m high water fall, variety of plants and animals while discovering the breathtaking nature and landscape. Continue cycling to Sihanouk Ville. We transfer by van at the the junction road to Sre Ambel and keep the hill part for the next day when we are fresh. (B,L,D)

Nice breaky of bacon, eggs & sausage with good coffee beside a great pool under plenty of tree cover.    It was then off on a dirt road through an interesting Cambodian rural area.  Came to Chambok village, which is a home stay zone with the tourists helping the locals with projects. 

A ride/walk to the waterfall in the Chambok enviro park; 3km round trip followed.  We then rode back past the resort out to the main highway.  Although it was busy I never felt in any danger at all. The only break from a fast ride down the hwy was the lunch stop at a local restaurant.   Apart from the normal food we had pigeon in one dish.  Everything was lovely. 

Another 20km odd on the busy hwy and we pulled over, loaded the bikes on the truck and headed off to Sihanouk Ville, about 100km away.  The shop lady at the place we stopped riding had a little monkey tied up with some rope and it was continually pacing up and down and panicking, horrible. 

Arrived Cambodian Resort, which is not far from the beach, about 5:15pm, a long hard day.  The heat had been getting to the Canberra people the last few days as it was particularly hot and humid.  It didn’t affect me as much being from a similar climate during out summer.  Also just about everyone (except me thank goodness) had stomach problems off and on from very early in the trip.  I suspect that some of it was due to people insisting on drinking the local ice with their iced coffee, soft drinks and different alcohol drinks.  It’s a good idea to never touch the ice in the backblocks of Asia as in the main it is made out of the local water, which is nearly always contaminated.  I saw this same result during a tour of Vietnam in 2010.

Just sufficient time to shower, change and do some washing before having to be at the foyer for the walk to dinner.  There was certainly no chance of getting bored on this schedule.  Dinner was at a local seafood restaurant just around the corner from the motel.  The lady who worked there also did the laundry for our people who wanted it at US$1 per kg.  These people are not work-shy that is for sure.   The dinner was great.  Went to bed early, 9:45pm.  

Chambok waterfall