Reflections

This tour was a lot of fun, in fact it was fantastic.  It was great to have the other Aussies along, especially the ones I knew already.   

This was my first fully organised and supported tour.  Would I do another fully supported and organised tour?  Probably not at this stage as I feel there is too much wasted time sitting around waiting for other people.  Also I am not the type of person who likes to be locked into someone else’s schedule.  Having done so many independent tours I like my freedom.  

Some places needed more time, others less.  That said parts of Asia would be difficult to do unsupported without having done this tour as a recon.  One thing that was a bit disappointing, we changed guides and drivers at each of the border crossings (except for Bien who was with us all the way) which was a bit of a pain getting used to new people all the time.  You were also obliged to tip each one as they came and went briefly.  The money was not an issue as a reasonable tip was normally US$1.  The guide in Vietnam, Sogern, was more of a navigator than a guide as he wouldn’t point out interesting places or explain anything unless prompted to do so.  Bien was a very nice bloke, always helpful and informative.

I would have preferred to pay the single room supplement (only $300) and get a room to myself.  However, Kev (also my room-mate on the Victorian Tour and Eastern Euro 2011 tour) had asked me so I couldn’t really refuse.  He is a good room-mate though, makes absolutely no noise at all during the night, is very considerate and I do enjoy the company.    

Costs: 

Airfares: $1,300 (Qantas – code-share with Vietnam Airlines)
Bike tour: $2,200 (including a mountain bike, all meals, accommodation, transfers, entrance fees).
Spending Money: $361 (including drinks, snacks, tips and purchase of souvenirs).

Total cost: $3,861. 

Day 25: Sun 2 Dec - Saigon - last day

Slept fairly well, up early and after my exercise routine went to breaky.  

Met some of the group at the foyer about 8:30am and wandered towards the War Museum with them.   I'd seen the museum before so I continued on to try and find a so called bicycle shop street but couldn’t find anything.  Ended up walking past the New Epoch Hotel where I stayed last time I was in Saigon.  It was good to re-visit this place from the past.

Continued back to the markets and bought some drink coasters.  

Back to the room where I sorted and packed my bag, then showered and changed for the flight home.  I had about five hours till I needed to be at the airport so went to an Italian Restaurant for a Caesar salad and fresh coconut drink lunch.  The fresh coconut was just divine, nothing added, just cut a hole in the top of a coconut and put a straw in.  

Then went wandering around the city centre, Opera House and onto the banks of the Mekong River.   They don’t seem to have made the best of the waterfront here as it could be a huge drawcard for tourists.

Back to motel where I chatted to the group who were coming and going.  Most had additional days in Saigon before they were flying home.  As I had had my fill of Saigon I decided that I might as well wait at the airport.   So I decided to catch a cab about 4pm and was at the airport by 4:30pm.  Cab cost $5 + $5 tip.   Tried to check in but the flight didn’t open till 6pm so had to wait till then.  It looked like the airport has been upgraded since 2010 as it seemed much cleaner and nicer.  I can't even remember the flight home in 2010, must have been so tired.   Eventually checked in and went in search of the Qantas Club Lounge but as there were no signs anywhere I couldn't find it.  So just went into the public area and had something to eat and drink.  When I was wandering towards the gate early I found the Vietnam Airlines/Qantas code share Club where I waited for the flight call.   

Boarded the Vietnam Airlines code share flight on time and took off with little fuss.   Was served a nice dinner of meat and veggies.  Took an analgesic/relaxant and went to sleep.  Slept on and off till breaky, 7am Sydney time.  

All round a great flight, the woman next to me didn't speak English so an excuse not to talk.   

Arrived in Sydney to grey skies and drizzle a half an hour early at 9am, but then had to wait 15 minutes for a gate.   Finally off the plane, cleared customs in 5 minutes (using the self-serve facility) and outside by about 10am.   Wendy came to the pick-up area and collected me.  It is always nice to be home again. 

The Peoples’ Congress building in Saigon

Day 24: Sat 1 Dec - Saigon

A good nights sleep but still woke very early.  

Breaky was good with both Asian and European dishes.  The coffee, as usual, was not quite drinkable.  Don't know how they could get it so wrong it is not rocket science.  Most of the group were visiting the famous Cu Chi Tunnels this day but I had seen them during my last trip to Vietnam.  

Met up with Kerry and Bob, who had also seen the tunnels before, for coffee near the stunning French built Central Post Office and Cathedral.  Coffee was very drinkable this time.  Kerry and Bob had to clean their bikes (brought their own bikes on the tour) so I went off wandering and to shop.   Ended up at the Ben Thanh Markets near the motel.  Got some table runners and bamboo placemats for Wendy and Tinkie.  Also a couple of sports singlets for Wendy and me.   I dislike souvenir shopping very much and very often don’t bother.   

Met Bob & Kerry again about 3pm and went shopping again, this time to Saigon Square.   

Met the group for dinner, but different people wanted different meals so we split into three groups.  I went with the Pho (Vietnamese broth soup pronounced fur) in a local shop near the markets. Bill Clinton had a meal there in 2000 (photo in shop) so it must be good. And it was great.  

Called at the ice cream place and had single scoop of yoghurt on the way home.  Kev, the ice-cream kid from wayback, had three huge scoops of ice-cream on a plate made of sweet cone.   He certainly loves his ice-cream.   In bed about 9:45pm.

Day 23: Fri 30 Nov - Tra Vinh to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) 50km

Ride: 50km; total: 1,174km

Day 21: Travinh - Mytho - Ho Chi Minh (50km+ cycling) After breakfast, start with a section of biking cuts off road onto gravel and dirt lanes, and weaves around hamlets, across water channels, and through quiet dense vegetation. This makes for superb biking after a ferry across the graping expanse of Cochien river from Travinh, the pretty tree lined town with a large population of ethnic Khmer.  Then another section of crossing rivers and canals by numerous, ubiquitous, fascinating ferries, we bike through the route takes us through narrow roads and lanes, past banana plantations, fields of sugar cane, through the lush green landscape of the delta. The ride lead us right into the heart of the rural Mekong before arriving at Mytho – the gateway of the Mekong delta to end our cycling trip. From Mytho, we transfer a couple of hours to Ho Chi Minh City to avoid the busy traffic. TOUR ENDS. 

I felt very sad this morning as it was the last day of the cycle tour.  Although I have a couple of days in Saigon before flying home.

After an adequate breakfast we cycled away from the motel at 7:30am and after only 5km we boarded a ferry (passenger/bike only) back to the mainland.  From the ferry stop it was 13km on a very rough track/road.  My bike didn’t help by having the front shockies permanently locked on to rigid.  It was nearly impossible to look around, but it didn't appear to be very interesting anyway. Stopped at the exit of the big ferry which the truck and bus had used to cross.  As we were waiting the rain came down in buckets so we waited to see what was going to eventuate.  The rain finally stopped so we headed out, but it came down again so we all got covered in dirt and crime from the road.  I stopped to put my raincoat on and therefore had to ride the remaining 20km with Bien.   

Finally stopped at a servo for the last time with the bikes.  It was judged to be too dangerous to ride into Saigon. 

Due to all the rain and mud on the road we were a bit grubby so we tried to clean up best we could for lunch in what we were told was a flash restaurant.  Some had access to their clothes others just washed the grime off.  A 20 minute ride in the bus to the Mekong Restaurant followed.  An amazing number of people and coaches, mostly tourists, were in and around the restaurant.  We were treated to a very nice lunch well presented in a timely manner.  Just as we got back on the bus one of the ladies rushed off.  She had left her very expensive Bolle sunglasses in the toilet and went back but they were gone.  However she had travel insurance with zero excess so was planning to make a claim.   This is the very first and last incident of this nature on the whole trip.  Despite the fact that we all carried large sums of money, cameras, phones, passports etc, we did not lose one other thing.  At no time did I feel uncomfortable about security on the trip although I was always careful with all my belongings.

Back on the bus for the two hour trip to the motel in Saigon.  Booked in, (own room) sorted out my gear and rinsed some clothes.  The Lavender Hotel was great for the $75 per night I paid.  Nearly directly opposite the main markets and not far from many other attractions.  No real window in my room but that was ok as the facilities were modern and clean.  Went for a wander around the markets but got so hassled by touts I gave it a miss.   The aisles are so clogged with stuff that you often have to turn sideways to walk through.   Some of the touts also grab hold of you to try and get you to stop.   These markets were full of the same old stuff anyway. 

Went to dinner with the group at a 4 star motel near the Opera House.  I had ox tail soup with a chicken and chips main, which were both served at the same time.  The meal was ok and only cost US$20 with one beer.  It was nice to eat in a fancy location for a change.   A similar meal would have cost US$5 at a local restaurant.  Had a short wander around the night markets and then back to the motel for an early night.   

The bikes were loaded on the truck for the last time on our tour

The grounds of the Mekong Restaurant

The street scene near the Lavender Hotel in Saigon

A very flash hotel in Saigon decked out for Christmas

 

Day 22: Thu 29 Nov - Can Tho to Tra Vinh

Ride: 80km; total: 1,124km

Day 20: Cantho - Travinh (80km+cycling) After breakfast, there will be time to explore side tracks and trails as the cycling distance today is not far. This gives a great first impression of the “heart of Mekong”. We take first short boat trip to Vinh Long, one of the famous fruits town in Mekong. Then you bike along narrow country lanes, easy dirt tracks and trails. This biking is at its most glorious-through tiny orchards, witness colorful life along the riverside, pedal pass picturesque delta homes, pause to chart with welcoming villagers, clack across innumerable wooden bridges. Cross narrow canals on a local sampan, before finishing at the main ferry for a refreshing boat trips across the expansive Co Chien River. Ride final few km to the very pretty Khmer town of Travinh. Overnight in Travinh. (B,L,D)

Up early after a good sleep and off to breaky near the motel at 6:15am.   Felt really well when I woke so head cold is gone thank goodness.  Good variety of food on offer, Asian and European. Coffee was its normal low standard though.  The restaurant was over water and a flock of geese, water hens and other birds lived underneath and around where we ate.   Not sure that this is all that healthy with Bird Flu and the like a distinct possibility.   But this is Asia and they live very close to their birds and animals. 

Left the motel at 7:30am right on time on the bus to clear the busy, modern city of Can Tho.   Drove for about 30 minutes and then onto the bikes for a 20 minute ride to our first ferry crossing of the Mekong Delta.   Fairly modern steel craft which only took passengers, bicycles and motorbikes due to the lack of vehicle access roads.  Disembarked at an island; a very productive place with all types of fruit and veggies.  Surprisingly there were citrus trees growing in a paddock next to rice.  Wouldn’t have thought this to be possible but the Vietnamese are great farmers and gardeners.  100,000 people live on the island which is about 8km long. 

Another ferry ride off the island and to continue an interesting ride through the Mekong Delta villages and 1,000 of acres of rice paddies.  It looked like the best rice crop we'd seen on the trip; apparently the Delta is a very rich place for agriculture.  We ended up having an early lunch as there wasn't too many option further on.  Lovely fish in a hot pot, veggie & pork dumplings, noodles & tofu, steamed veggies and rice.    

Got back on the bikes to finish the day off.  The best part was the 15km along a single bicycle/motor scooter concrete path through a rural area.   I never get sick of this type of riding, this time we saw the real Vietnam.  The houses were, in the main basic but that said there were lots of rendered brick places too.   The food production that goes on in these areas is outstanding, especially the rice fields.  

You also saw the chooks, ducks, turkeys, cows, geese, goats (although not many) and all the domestic dogs & cats people keep.   It looks as though nobody would go hungry in this country.  

Arrived at the Motel, Cuu Long about 3:40pm.  The guide had apologised for it being basic but in fact it was really nice.  Aircon, hot water, clean linen, and even green tea facilities in the room.  

After doing the chores, shower, wash the riding clothes I went for a wander around the area with Kev.  Saw no Europeans at all; it is definitely a city for the locals only.   

A few of the geese which live under the restaurant

A child seat for a scooter

The child that rode in that seat

One of the interesting single tracks we rode in the Mekong Delta

A group of ladies planting rice in the Mekong Delta

Cuu Long Hotel, Tra Vinh

 

Day 21: Wed 28 Nov - Chau Doc to Can Tho

Ride: 60km; total: 1,064km

Day 19: Chau Doc - Can Tho (50km+cycling) After breakfast, we leave for the floating houses on upper Mekong river by boat where we can see plenty of catfishes, red snappers… breeding under right their houses. What is an amazing life! Then keep boating to visit the Cham village with about 12.000 people who those are weaving sarongs, hats…by hands as keeping their ancestral tradition. Walk to the mosques that Muslims pray and teach Cham kids in Arabic for a while. Then we start cycling along incredible country roads from Chau Doc to Bachuc along the border, or re-trace back to triton (depending on road conditions). The cycling starts to gently undulate and mountains begin to loom as you ride out off Chau Doc. The presence of Thnot trees indicates the growing proximity to Cambodia and the local people speak Vietnamese as their second lanaguge. This afternoon, you will cycle to the killing fields of Vietnam at Bachuc, where Polpot’s regime massacred over 3,000 Vietnamese in 1978. Dinner and overnight in Can Tho. (B,L,D)

Awoke at 2am in a lather of sweat and coughing, maybe the last throws of the head cold.  Managed a good nights sleep nevertheless as Mike Hayes had given me 4 day/night cold tablets.  Felt okay in the morning.  Breaky at 6am in the hotel, basic but okay, eggs sausage and some brawn thing. Another cycling group of 30 odd were also staying at the Ha Long so it was busy.  

Headed out on the bus first up.  We were being taken to board a boat.  First we visited a floating fish farm where they raised basa for export including to Oz. Also saw 1000s of floating houses, some really basic, some quite flash.  There were even workshops, factories, shops and service stations, just like any city but floating.  You wouldn't want to see the conditions the fish are raised if you ever eat basa.

Then to a Muslim community which fled the civil war in Cambodia in the 1970s and never went back. The area around these peoples’ houses and shops was absolutely filthy with litter and rubbish everywhere.  Returned to the bus and was driven out of town to our bikes.  Rode for an hour or so through some busy but interesting areas.  Not as pretty as the rural areas of Cambodia, it was very crowded and people seem to live on top of each other in Vietnam.  

Stopped off at another Killing Field where the Khmer Rouge had killed about 3,000 Vietnamese. Why, no one seems to know, these people were Khmer too so it is difficult to work out.

Rode the remaining 18km to lunch on a fairly busy road, but with no apparent danger.  Lunch was wonderful, fresh Vietnamese food, veggies, omelette, pork & spinach soup, deep fried fish and rice.   There was more than enough food.   Leftovers pictured below.   

Back on the bikes and another 18km along a busy road running beside a canal.  It was teeming with boats and lined with houses.  This country is certainly "alive".   

Stopped cycling for the day at about the 60km mark, had a drink and put the bikes on the truck.   The bus was to take two hours to drive to the motel.   After about 20 minutes an air hose inside the bus broke and the driver pulled over.  The bus quickly got very hot so we all got off for some fresh air.  The driver managed to put a temporary solution in place and we were away again in 30 minutes. However it was a long four hours on the bus all up and we ended up arriving at the motel after 7pm.  I suspect that the guides were being too nice and that they were reluctant to give us what they consider to be bad news.  So they just say two hours instead of four.  A long day with a fair bit of wasted time in my opinion, too long over lunch and we didn't need to do another boat trip today.  

Booked into a very flash and grand motel right on a river junction of the Mekong Delta; water all around with passing boat traffic.  Dinner was at 8pm and at a flash restaurant on the water, not that you could see much as it was dark.  Great meal, veggie soup, chicken, lovely hot-pot fish and green beans with a fruit salad at the end.  

Wandered straight back and into bed about 10:35pm.  I hoped to sleep better, without a nagging cough. 

Ladies fishing near a basa fish farm 

Veggie cart

There is always plenty of food; this is the lefovers

A mask to keep the dust out of my nose and mouth, and the sun off my face

  

 

Day 20: Tue 27 Nov - Takeo, Cambodia to Chau Doc, Vietnam

Ride: 80km; total: 1,004km

DAY 18: Takeo-Chau Doc (78km) Early breakfast. Fill in water and check visa for Vietnam one more time as Vietnam visa has to be done in advance. Cycle 53km to Phnom Den border crossing point. Take a break in half way for water stop. After immigration, say goodbye to our Cambodian driver. Lunch at the local restaurant at the border. After lunch, cycle to discover along the Mekong Delta road into the beautiful green countryside. Along the way you will see rice fields and water buffalos nearby the road. Arrive in Chau Doc, those with energy to spare can climb Sam Mountain for sunset! Dinner and overnight in Chau Doc. (B,L,D) 

Early rise as usual and had a bit of a wander around the area.  Lots of guest houses but just for the locals I'd guess as there's not much to see here.  I did see some lovely old mansions from the French era.  

Scheduled to leave at 7am for our breaky stop and for a change everyone was ready.   Breaky was at the Cool Restaurant a sort of Asian McDonalds in the city.  Breakfast was individually ordered and consisted of two fried eggs and a shared omelette with Kev.  Not quite up to the standard, but ok. 

Out onto the hwy and apart from a couple of drink stops we rode fairly fast all the way to the Vietnamese border.  It took about an hour to do all the paperwork at both sides of the border.   At the Vietnamese side the official asked for US$1 each from everyone (although we’d all pre-paid our visas) but when we challenged him he gave the money back to the first few people who had paid him.  I suspect he could see we were no pushover, we complained loudly about having to pay it, demanding an official receipt and saying we would report him to his boss.    

Another 25km through very interesting villages (in and along the Mekong Delta) followed until we reached our hotel, Ha Long.  Another nice place and well above the standard I was expecting.  

Went for a wander down town and found a lot of shops selling dried seafood with a sort of sugary glaze over it, a local speciality.  A very interesting city.  Dinner was at the motel as the city would not have catered for us Europeans.

Drying their rice on both sides of the road 

Only in Indochina would a small motorcycle carry such a large load 

A Cambodian bus; passengers sit along each side, the front and on the floor

A local speciality, dried fish with a glaze poured over it. Smelt very fishy.

A very old rickshaw setup in Chau Doc

Water lily stems and flowers used as a vegetable