2012 - Greg's Cycle Tour of Indochina: Bangkok to HCM City: Day 19: Mon 26 Nov

Ride: 110km; total: 924km

Day 17: Kampot – Takeo (85km) After breakfast, we cycle heading to Takeo, the less traveled town in Cambodia but is has much history related to the first Khmer civilization when the first Kingdom was established in the early century. It was known as Funan or Nokor Phnom, means the Kingdom of the Hill. Enjoy packed lunch overlook the scenery of the countryside. After lunch, we continue cycle to Takeo passing Ta Mok's house, the former general commander of the Khmer Rouge. Board on the boat for sunset to Phnom Da to visit the hill top temple former the capital of Khmer Empire in the early century known as Funan. Overnight in Mittapheap Guesthouse. (B,L,D)

Up early to a lovely sunrise out of our 3rd floor motel room, palm trees, islands and tropical waters. Felt much better so the head cold is just about done. As we wanted to ride out at 7am we were told that breaky was at 6am. We got up early and went down only to be told that it was at 7am. Again a little frustrating. When it was ready at 7am it was really good, veggies, eggs, sausage and coffee which was ok with a splash of coffee and the rest hot water.

Headed out about 8am and after a short ride on bitumen we went off road. The next 38km was on a variety of tracks, paths and roads including some fairly muddy patches. Nevertheless it was fun and we saw some great rural areas.

Briefly visited a pepper plantation which also had a B&B attached.

We soon found ourselves at the lunch stop, a basic but busy local restaurant on the main road. A big group of local businessmen came in after us but had pre-ordered their lunch so were served first. This was good as it was early and it gave us time to cool down. Just so much food in the end we were sending it away to the drivers and guides table untouched. Although basic the food had wonderful flavours.

Headed out after lunch into a very hot afternoon. I drank about 3lt of water during the 58km ride to the motel, 40km on road and 18 on dirt. The 18km off road into Takeo was some of the best cycling we experienced on the whole trip. The villagers were out harvesting their rice and transporting it to home by all means possible; ox cart, motorbike, push bike, over the shoulder on a bamboo pole, etc. At one stop we were entertained by some lovely happy kids sitting on the fence. A few knew some basic English.

Although the head guide said the motel was going to be basic it turned out to be very good. Huge beds, hot shower and aircon, couldn't ask for more. And I was able to speak to Wendy on Skype via the excellent free wifi. Not bad for a basic guesthouse.

Walked to dinner only 700m down the road on the nearby lake. But by then it was dark so we couldn't enjoy the view. Nice dinner, particularly liked the mild freshwater fish and the veggies dish. In bed by 8:35pm as it had been a tough but great day.